He predicted the death of streetwear and he proves it: the American Virgil Abloh gets bogged down and makes women tailors, heels and evening dresses in a parade of his brand Off-White Thursday in Paris.
In the middle of a symbolic decoration made up of old half-cars cut out and placed vertically in a performance hall in Bercy, the star model Bella Hadid opens the show in a long black dress in tulle and with ruffles.
An outfit perfectly suited to get your Oscar with a modern twist: a sleeve is made of technical fabric from Arc-Teryx, a Canadian company specializing in clothing for mountain sports.
Same principle on the white crinoline dress worn by her sister Gigi Hadid with a blue sleeve.
Another asymmetrical black dress split on one side for Karlie Kloss, one of the highest-paid tops in the world.
Some essential streetwear basics such as hoodies or camouflage pants are mixed in the fall-winter 2020-2021 ready-to-wear collection with a long and loose skirt or a flounced half-dress.
The silhouette of street clothes is structured and narrowed: the pants are long and narrow, the jackets close to the body, the tight dresses.
Classics such as a houndstooth suit or shirt-skirt set below the knee are rejuvenated with graphic and flashy accessories, such as chains on a necklace or belt, or even prints in the form of paint stains. Black and orange, light green and electric blue: the colors are mixed by contrasts.
On the catwalk, the sneakers, with the famous red “anti-theft”, a trademark of Off-White, which are among the most coveted in the world, are crushed by the multitude of sandals, ankle boots or even waders with heels.
Star of millennials and king of luxury streetwear, designer Virgil Abloh, also the creator of men’s collections for the French house Louis Vuitton, said in December that this trend would “die”.
In January, during men’s ready-to-wear week, he worked on revisiting the suit and continued his momentum in this parade which ended in a rain of confetti.
– Rick Owens “monsters” –
Another American stylist, Rick Owens, however, remained faithful to his post-apocalyptic aesthetic in a parade to the sound of “Down in the park”, by Briton Gary Numan, to whom he owes his vision of fashion.
“Monster” shoulders, too-long sleeves and super high shoes with wedge sole – iconic Rick Owens model – worn on the catwalk as by the guests and the stylist himself: the parade is theatrical and everything is in exaggeration although the proportions are harmonious.
The asymmetrical gray, red or black cashmere dresses, cut on one side at the hip and fitted with a train on the other, are a flagship piece of the collection. They are worn under recycled plastic coats and boots made of the same material with zipped pockets.
The down jackets made in collaboration with Moncler transform into capes, light and majestic.