Orphaned growing up in Bordeaux with his adoptive parents, the creator of Balmain Olivier Rousteing, at the center of a documentary vying for the Cesars – the French Oscars – breaks bourgeois codes in a parade on Friday in Paris.
The classic equestrian style, patterns of BCBG scarves, silks and cashmere declined in cognac and dark blue colors: the symbols of the rich and privileged social layer that the 34-year-old stylist knew, as a child, in one of the most bourgeois French cities are diverted into this ready-to-wear collection.
Imposing shoulders and waders, the garish mixture of red and black with large golden buttons: the collection refers to the end of the 80s evoking the dressing room of Pretty Woman, interpreted by Julia Roberts in the film by Garry Marshall released in 1990.
“”We overturned the old restrictive codes of previous generations to defend today’s values of Balmain and the beautiful diversity of a truly modern France,” wrote Olivier Rousteing in a note of intent for the parade.
Helena Christensen, 51-year-old Danish and Peruvian model, in a chocolate-colored sequined jumpsuit enhanced with a scorpion-shaped single earring, and Spanish Esther Cañadas, 42, in a black suit with silver buttons, trod the podium for the “Wonder Boy”, title of the documentary on Olivier Rousteing a few hours before the Cesar ceremony.
– Half-Ethiopian, Half-Somali, 100% French –
Little black boy “born under X”, adopted by a white Bordeaux family at the age of 1 month, Olivier Rousteing tells in this film the search for his biological parents.
“Those who have seen the film know what I learned about my origins,” wrote Olivier Rousteing in a personal and touching message on the occasion of the parade.
“Knowing that I am half Ethiopian, half Somali and 100% French, I know that my search for answers to my past has helped me to understand how happy I am to live in the present, in this Paris of new possibilities with fewer barriers and more inclusion, “he said.
The journey of Olivier Rousteing who fought to “break his karma” and be successful has something to inspire: a graduate of the Higher School of Fashion Arts and Techniques in Paris, he made his debut in Rome with Roberto Cavalli and in 2011 at 25 he became artistic director of the historic French luxury brand.
– Latex –
With his 5.8 million followers on Instagram where he posts selfies with Kim Kardashian or Rihanna, he rejuvenates and dusts the house founded in 1945.
His glamorous and sparkling parades attracted pop culture stars, actresses and soccer players, but he also made stage costumes for the Paris opera and for Beyonce.
This Friday he pays tribute to the heritage of Pierre Balmain with the “Jolie Madame” silhouette and the iconic six-button blazer. Next comes the innovation of the season: pleated pants and tops draped in latex for “surprising sensuality”.
The materials have the wind in their sails having already composed the majority of the looks of another heavyweight, Saint Laurent, associated with cashmere. Stylist Anthony Vaccarello wanted to create tension between “bourgeoisie and vulgarity”.
“Balmain and Saint-Laurent on the same page with latex. Who could have imagined it?” Comments New York Times critic Vanessa Friedman in a tweet.